The summit and down the other side

Yesterday was the most physically exhausting day of all of our lives.
We went to bed on Wednesday night at 6.30. It was impossible to sleep
because the porters seemed to be having several parties. We were up
again at 11 pm and we started walking very, very slowly at 12. Six
hours of watching the heels of the person ahead of you, heel to toe
all the way. I've never walked so slowly, so monotonously. Like
miners with our headtorches we snaked our way up this steep mountain
through 1,200 metres in altitude of volcanic dust and rock. Above us
bright stars, ahead and behind us more miners. We stopped every hour,
crowding onto ledges to drink water. At various intervals people
rushed passed us with guides on their way down, unable to go further.
It was a very long way and nearing it's end we had to clamber
exhausted over rock. An marginally advanced party of Rowan, Ian and I
reached Gilman's Point at 6.30 am. Then with the rest of the group we
watched the sun rise over Africa. It was an emotional moment. We were
exhausted and the top of the mountain in the early morning sun with
the glaciers looking internally lit was sublimely beautiful. Our next
challenge was Uhuru. Although not as steep, we had to walk along paths
around the crater in the snow for a further two hours to reach the
summit.
Descending took nearly four hours. Ian, Sam and Rowan skied on their
walking boots through the shale leaving clouds of dust behind them. At
lower altitude we joined in. We were dusty and completely knackered
when we finally returned to Kibo camp to vegetable stew, we hadn't
eaten for 14 hours, half an hour's rest, no water to wash, before
packing up and setting off in a snow storm to the next camp 3 hours
and 15 kilometres away.
None of us had any idea how difficult this was going to be. Walking
daily for hours to get to Kilimanjaro. Camping in extremely cold, wet,
muddy, under equipped campsites. Coping with altitude sickness. Then
reaching the summit. Tanzania is heartbreakingly beautiful. Our 30
porters were amazing. Delicious meals were conjured out of bags
carried on their heads, ahead of our slow progress. Our guides
cajolled and encouraged us to the summit.
Now we're in the coach returning to the hotel talking about hot
showers and flushing loos. Peter, the leader of this expedition, has
just suggested beginning it all again..
I'm low on battery and will write about the most beautiful six hour
walk (that's what we've been doing today Elaine!) back to the Marangi
Gate, later.

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